Our taxi driver whisks us
from the grey and depressing train station of Zhengzhou to the dusty outskirts
of Dengfeng. We pass by a good number of temples, and admire the Songshan Mountains,
before turning left into a gated driveway, onto the sprawling grounds of
Xiao Long Wushu School. Boys of all sizes (and the odd girl) litter the square,
all wearing the red and black school uniforms. The only adults in sight are the
occasional tourists who stay in the hotel by the same name, the same hotel
that Shifu Shi de Cheng calls headquarters for his own semi-independent shaolin
kung fu school.
Shifu travels a lot, but
during the summer months he teaches, mostly (if not solely) his European and
American students. Some are from schools he visits every year, some are
his disciples, and others flock here because of Shifu’s reputation as an
excellent martial artist and teacher.
We receive a warm welcome
in Shifu’s personal quarters, where he pours us tea, and brings us up-to-date
on training-related issues. Classes are two hours each, twice a day, from
8:30 to 10:30 AM, then again from 4 to 6 PM. The training is rigorous and
fast-paced, but we manage to keep up, mostly. Classes are held outside on the
square in front of the hotel. It's been around 90 and humid, so we are
usually drenched within 5 minutes. We start with stationary warm-up, go
for a run, do some more warm-ups, stretch. Then it's ALL ji ben gong, all 20
drills (there are 18 official ones, but Shifu added two of his own) for
the last half hour. I am an orange belt at Wu Dao, and my 8-year-old son is also a student there. We are
only familiar with a couple of the “easier” drills. Then there is my
husband, who has never practiced kung fu at all! The inevitable fumbling
and panting aside, we learn incredibly fast. Shifu’s instructors Kai Li and Wei
Chong are very patient with us.
Shifu usually teaches the
t’ai chi students the first hour, then comes around to instruct everyone during
open training. Most of our fellow students practice their staff, sword,
double-sword, and fan forms. A good number of people return here regularly,
sometimes staying for six months or longer. It’s a fun group of people, very
motivated and inspiring. Of course it’s easy to find things to talk about,
as we are all here because we love kung fu!
Three days into our
training, Shifu decides to take us on a trip to the Shaolin Monastery, where he
lived for many years. A fellow student describes the monastery as “Chinese
Disneyland” because of the large amounts of tourists it attracts. It also
has gift shops, and a theater where Shaolin “shows” are being performed, a mix
of martial arts and acrobatics. When we arrive at the monastery at 5 in
the morning, we are lucky enough to see only monks on their morning run. I
had heard and read many negative recommendations about the monastery (too
busy, many new-ish buildings), but I have to say: standing in the deserted
courtyard at sunrise, in the company of Shifu, listening to the drums and chanting
of the morning prayers, I feel very much at peace, and grateful for this
experience.